Okay, one of the smallest details in the room is the four alabaster lamps glowing softly in the four corners. Overhead an Italian Renaissance ceiling. Live classical and semi-classical music playing. Silver engraved glasses for water. Lac and mirrorwork napkin rings. You are dining in style.

The menu says cheerily: Our culinary team will certainly endeavour at all times to accommodate special meal requests. Encouraged by this, we asked for safed maas of which we had heard so much. Not possible, we were told. Okay, we said, can we have something the chef recommends? The nice young waiter told us that the chef would recommend the items on the menu. Humbled, we set about ordering and were not disappointed.

The maas ke sule (skewered meat marinated in Rajasthani spices and kachri which is a tenderising agent in the form of a berry) went well with the rotis. The Aloo Jaipuri was very good indeed, tender young potatoes swimming in a sweetish tomato gravy.

The laal maas was also excellent and so was the Gajrela (carrots, milk, cashew nuts, raisins and khoya). The rest of the menu wandered the subcontinent, offering aviyal and poriyal and curries galore. An extensive wine menu is also on offer.