Around us were an American couple, a hurdy-gurdy of Italians who were laughing themselves silly and shouting themselves hoarse, two French ladies and another bunch of French tourists, studiously ignoring each other. The Copper Chimney (seemingly no relation to the restaurants of the same name in Mumbai) has beer on offer and a bunch of continental dishes including a Baked Alaska for which you must allow a 20-minute preparation time. The handi meat came in a nice copper-plated handi sitting on a fake chula that made it difficult to extract the chicken.

The laal maas (mutton cooked with Rajasthani spices) was better, more evocative, more layered. But in a restaurant that aims at fine dining one wishes that there weren't so many bones in the meat dishes. They could offer a boneless option even if at a higher cost. At least one has the option. We also tried the mutter paneer and found it heavy on the garam masala.